It wasn't a full evaluation of the problems, as I didn't have a PC handy to keep going back to the service manual to see how to check each item. I would think it would drop more than 2V, so can someone please advise?
If the coil is causing the problem, that's the fuse that will blow. Another plan of attack would be to remove the dark green / orange wire from the coil's connector and use jumper wires to hook in a 10 or 15 amp fuse.
#Fuel pc won't start professional#
No professional likes throwing random parts at a problem but if you have another coil to install, you might try that first. Chrysler has very little trouble with injectors so I guess I'd head for the coil first. If the fuse that's blowing is the 30 amp fuse "3", that pretty much leaves the ignition coil and one of the injectors. Removing the 20 amp fuse will cause the Check Engine light to turn on, and fault codes will be set in memory, but you should be able to drive the truck. If not, it could be because the 20 amp circuit is shorting but the 30 amp fuse is blowing because it has more current running through it for other stuff. Since this is an intermittent problem, you might consider removing that fuse, then see if the 30 amp fuse still blows. That circuit won't stop the engine from running. That would be the one that would blow if the problem was with those items. The fuel system leak detection pump and oxygen sensor heaters are on a different fuse, fuse "A", a 20 amp after the ASD relay. That leaves the ignition coil and one of the injectors as suspects. I would not suspect the alternator, at least not until everything else has been ruled out.
The 12 volt feed brush could potentially be damaged during a repair attempt but even that is hard to do. The alternator isn't likely to short intermittently.
The fuel pump is on a different fuse and totally different circuit, so you should still hear it hum for one second each time you turn on the ignition switch. The closest book I have is a '99 book but it should be similar to your truck.